Copyright 2011:Solo Standards.Standard Poodle Breeders.All rights reserved.
To my customers!
We are ready to start thinking about taking your puppy home! Here are some helpful hints on what we have been doing here for routine, food, going to the Vet ect, ect
1. We are currently feeding Bil-Jac Select or Bil-Jac large breed. I have fed this food for the better part of 8 years now, with GREAT results. Please go to their website
(bil-jac.com) to read about this food and the long standing company that make it. I have tried some other ok dog foods here and there...but my dogs like Bil-Jac better and we have good results. The 4Health and Fromm are used by many of my customers and well liked. Beware there is a lot of propaganda on dog food, do not throw common sense out the window as you sift through info. Everyone on the internet is not a expert on dog food as they would seem to think. Feed what works for your dog! DO NOT change foods a lot the first year.
I will send puppy food home with each puppy and if you do switch food, please do it gradually by mixing half-half for 3 to 4 days. DO NOT use elevated dish stands as these have been proven to add to risk of bloating. I have NEVER as yet had a dog bloat here or had a customer say one of my puppies has bloated. I do stay aware as bloat is a problem in the deep chested dogs (Yes that means Poodles.) A very high fat diet also contributes to bloat... so too many goodies and very cheap dog food which use low quality rendering fats in the first 4 ingredients are NO's.
2.) I do save/make "meat/bone broths" and use small amounts on the evening meal. I also add "small" amounts of plain greek yogurt, pumpkin or cooked chicken livers and chicken liver broth...about 2 times a week to keep things interesting and keep appetites good. Chicken liver broth and bone broth are A+ things to add as a real food.
NO junk food or sweets.
3.) I do give a multi-vitamin and a probiotic. I will give that info to all customers.
4.) I feed my dogs twice a day and puppies 3 times a day until they are about 5 months old. Some customers successfully feed "free choice" and that is fine. I have too many dogs to do that and could not keep track of who is eating good or not. I like routine and being accountable to my dogs so 2 meals a day works for us. Do not feed one big meal a day as Standards are prone to bloat. Do not feed a overly hot dog who is panting from play. Do not let them run and play hard for a while after they eat ( 60 minutes rest.) I keep buckets of clean fresh water all over...accessible at all times. When you first get your puppy and are house training it is ok to put the water up about 2 hrs before bedtime. Please note...poodles drink quit a lot.
5.)All puppies go home with Vet record of vaccinations and my de-worming schedule. PLEASE take this with you on your first Vet appointment which should be made in advance of taking your puppy home. Puppy vaccinations at 7, 11 and 15 weeks is our protocol and rabies last and "several weeks after all the other routine puppy vaccinations." Please have a Vet you trust to talk about vaccinations, heart worm, flea control (if needed.) PLEASE BEWARE of taking your puppy to areas of heavy traffic before the puppy vaccination schedule is finished. Parvo is so contagious and prevalent. That does not mean do not socialize your pup...just use common sense and stay clear of high traffic areas.
6.) I start grooming these pups at 4 weeks old. The whole first year is a lesson every time they are on the grooming table so please keep a routine up. I groom my adult dogs every 6 to 8 weeks. It is important to acknowledge as a customer that you understand this and will keep your poodle groomed. Some people like a shaggier look but we are active and they all come in the house so we keep things neat here in sporting clips. If you are interested in learning grooming here is a good starting DVD to order, just google it : muddycreekgrooming
I could not explain it any better then this video. For me grooming is a bonding time with my dog... as long as you enjoy it and do not dread it. Grooming takes a investment in equipment and time. Ears need cleaned on a regular basis and nails trimmed too! Every person who owns a Poodle should know how to clean the ears and trim the nails as to not be totally dependent on a groomer for your dogs comfort and well being.
7.) Your puppy will be doggie door trained...that does not mean house trained completely... but with a great start. The concept is in place and you must just continue it and be accountable to your puppy. He is a baby and will have to go often...for sure when waking up, after meals and after a playful romp. Every week the bladder control gets better...by 11 weeks old most pups can control the bladder muscle if taken out regular. I use one command word and a potty area while training a young pup.
8.) Crate training is good if not abused. Crates serve a wonderful purpose, but puppies are not meant to be in them too much. I do use crates at bedtime for housebreaking. I constantly have a crate by my bed as I always seem to be training a pup. They like to be near you and you will have much less crying if they feel your presence...sorry that means the basement and laundry room are out! I have SUCESSFULLY crate trained MANY pups starting at age 8 to 12 weeks without them ever being in a crate before! I do have a crate in the puppy area with the door off so your puppy has been able to come and go in a large crate to nap at will from a early age. Many of my pups love the crate to sleep in before they ever go to homes.
9.) I give plenty of time for each puppy being picked-up so we can go over things and you can meet the parent dogs. This is important as many customers drive quit a long way and meeting all my dogs shows what your puppy will hopefully mature to be. A good breeder has nothing to hide.
10.) I hate to add this part....if I am meeting you or you are picking your puppy up here, please either pay balance in cash or send a check at least 2 weeks prior to pick-up date. In other words checks have to clear the bank.
`11.) For toys I like Kong, many assorted balls and frisbees for fetching, Nyla bone, deer antlers or beef knuckle bones ( to keep teeth clean.) I cannot have stuffed toys here as they get unstuffed to quick! I do not use rawhide as one bad incident made me realize how dangerous rawhide can be...surgery was needed to remove as raw hide swells in the stomach...terrible.
12.) If anyone has more question...please do not be shy! I may add it to my list or we can just talk. It would not be beyond me to think of other helpful hints as we progress and add them here! My mind is always ticking so this page could get long...thought 13 may show up.
I love updates and pictures anytime, I do ask as a request that everyone send at least one update and picture of their puppy (email is good) at 1 yr old so I know how you are doing! My breeding program is only as good as the homes my puppies go to, so each of my customers is appreciated and never taken for granite.
Jean and her puppies!
Please read all info on this page in full if you want to place a deposit.
Many questions are answered if you read my website pages.
I sincerely hope my website is enjoyable and informative.
I use ONLY my own words, thoughts, concepts and pictures.
Those who steal my info/pictures...please note I have a copyright!
Below is info on:
1.) Deposit, Purchasing & prices, waiting list
2.) Ready to take your puppy home
4.) Books & my training thoughts
Just scroll down to read it all.
Please note...Solo Standards only has 2 litters a year.
At this time we do NOT ship our puppies.
***Also please read Sales agreement/Health guarantee page
All puppy vaccinations and de-worming for appropriate age are done. These records are sent home with every puppy, please take record with you on your first Vet appointment.
Please have your Vet apt made in advance of taking your puppy home as stated in sales contract.
"Early Neurological Stimulation" is done on every litter.
I spend tons of time with my puppies!
They come to you healthy, well socialized, freshly groomed and VERY LOVED by me!
All questions answered to the best of my knowledge at all stages of a puppy/dogs life that comes from Solo Standards.
Shipping: As of Dec 2013 I do not ship my puppies cargo any longer. TOO many delays, flight changes, ect. Some people do fly in on their own means and take puppies back as carry on. If you do this you must plan to do so at 8 wks old or my pups can get too big to take on carry on. Most people pick puppies up and meet the parent dogs.
Prices for Limited Registration are $1800 with first pick male/female being $2000 (my largest pups will be $2000.)
When/if I sell with breeding rights, it $3500 and a breeding contract is filled out.
I much prefer pet homes then dealing with breeders...just a fact.
Deposits are $500 and are NON-REFUNDABLE
You are trusting me as a breeder and I am trusting that if you place a deposit, I can rely on you...I tell many people that litters are spoken for when I have deposits on a litter.
If I cannot help you with a puppy due to not having enough pups/not the gender you requested or some reason on MY END then I will give you the option of applying your deposit to the next litter or a full refund. Colors must be noted on contract...I do respect color/gender choices but it is always best to put color choices on the contract and note it with me before hand. I breed mostly for solid black, solid brown and occasional black/white & brown/white parti's....some sables but I will note that in a breeding if I expect them.
A deposit on a litter means you know you want a Solo Standards pup. I put MANY pictures on my website of the litter growing up with news about them every 2 weeks. Choosing goes in order of deposits received and is done with us working together...we do not start the picking process until 7 weeks old.
Solo Standards "ALWAYS" has the right to 1st pick of a litter.
We have the right to refuse sale to anyone at anytime.
I do keep a waiting list but I may be different from other breeders:
1.) I only take deposits for 1 litter at a time, as to be sure to be able to help all those with deposits. As a small breeder it is wise to not get too far out on how many people I am helping to get a puppy at a time. I do my best to have 2 litters a year...preferably spring/summer/fall months.
2.) I do keep a waiting list to have your name/basic puppy requests/phone number and contact date to go on. BUT I rely on you to keep in touch with me with continued interest until the time I take a deposit and start a puppy contract with you, at that point I keep in touch with you. I re-fresh my waiting list every 2 months, if you have not sent a email saying you want to remain on the waiting list then I do not keep your info. It is the only way I can keep a fair list of who is really waiting. Too many people ask to be on a waiting list and if they do not get a puppy quickly...they move on but do not tell me. Thus I came up with only keeping a tentative list and relying on people to check back with me to stay on the list. It seems to be working well and involves no money. I find my true & steady customers this way.
SPAY & NEUTERING
All puppies are sold under a spay/neuter contact unless agreed upon BEFORE PURCHASE. AKC reg papers are mailed when proof of spay/neuter is sent to me (by 10 to 12 months old.) NO EXCEPTIONS. Proof being copy of Vet receipt. I prefer the puppy gets through his/her biggest growth spurts before being spayed/neutered. They do use hormones for bone/joint growth in these times. I feel if they get past these growth stages then they can be spayed/neutered with very good long term health. I recommend 7 to 8 months spaying for females and 8 to 9 months for neutering for males. My contract is considered broken, null & void if you do not follow through on spaying or neutering your pup in the 12 month time frame and you will not get AKC papers. I do stay current on the spay/neuter updates and stand by my protocol.
Pups are guaranteed against hereditary problems for 1 year and against hip dysplasia for 2 years. If a problem arises I will not ignore it. I breed for healthy dogs, but as life with any living creature on this earth...human or animal, their is no 100% guarantee of never having a health issue. Any breeder who states otherwise is either a beginner who is in the first 5 years of their breeding program or is lying. What I can guarantee is I try my very best to breed a all around wonderful dog. This means I continually health test, educate myself, KNOW MY LINE OF DOGS. I love what I do and the learning curve has no end for me but is always moving forward. As of 2018 I have 14 years into by Standard Poodles breeding program and several more years with other breeds before I got into Standards. I only breed Standard Poodles and specialize in a larger built poodle that some refer to as:
"ROYAL STANDARD POODLES"
It is hard to guarantee size, I will give my best opinion. My females range from 55 to 75 lbs and my males range from 65 to 90 lbs. Please note the average size show poodle is 45 to 50 lbs and very light boned these days (smaller these days then years gone by as that became the show trend in AKC as it often does in many breeds :( I am not against this size of poodle...all is well...I just love and breed for a larger more majestic stature & strength in my poodles. It is a work in progress along with the best temperaments of stable nerve, mind & intelligence you will find.
Please search for a ethical breeder who is committed for the long haul. I believe you should not only get a quality puppy for your money...but the life of the breeding dogs is just as important. I love my dogs, I promise they have long, wonderful & full lives.
Poodles as a whole are a sensitive, intelligent, athletic breed and I treat them as such. I also appreciate their individuality and personality quirks that makes each Poodle so different... ranging from a thinker to a clown. This breed has tons of personalty and they like to show it off. They love the great outdoors...and love following you in the house!
About poodle colors...there are so many...NO other purebred dog breed has as many colors as the Poodle! Poodle coat genetics are different and poodles can change shades of the color they are born with...fading is possible/likely with poodles. The ONLY color that can be 100% guaranteed not to change over years in poodles is ICY WHITE. Again, I give my best opinion on the size your pup will be as a adult...I never guarantee size or color. I do breed for the Royal Size Poodle overall...in both size and noble character.
Solo Standards Puppy Info page
Ready to take your puppy home!
Please read tips below for easy transition
For those with interest in grooming
Deposits, Purchasing, Pricing Info
Here are some grooming tips...please know I am not a professional groomer. I do ALL of my own grooming on my dogs and puppies. It is a bonding time, a training time, plus I know how I personally like my dogs done so would not want anyone doing my grooming. I like a sporting clip on my dogs done with some tail and topknot left on.
***I really must stress this*** If you dread grooming...please pay a groomer to do it as your dog will end up hating it too. Desire is the key to learning most anything!
***I also must stress*** that even if you like a longer coat on your puppy you MUST still groom them fairly often that first year. Simply use a attachment blade and groom them leaving the coat trimmed but longer. You do not have to groom them really short but you must realize they are learning to be groomed that whole first year with the first 6 months being of utmost importance. If you call me when your puppy is 5 or 6 months old and have never shaved their body down before and wonder why they are acting so bad...I will tell you why...you waited TOO LONG! They also get too hot with really long coats and actually prefer to be trimmed.
*** I feel I also must stress (because I hear this from my customers all the time) "I go very slow and give many rewards, but they still squirm all over the place." OK, here is the deal, grooming is a grooming and they learn that, puppies & adult dogs greatly appreciate your being "kind & gentle" YET "firm & efficient!" Do not make grooming into marathon of being so slow and using baby talk, ect. Puppies/dogs want and need direction from you and will give you respect back when they feel you are in control and being fair. If you are truly learning the art of grooming and having problems...do not be afraid to take your puppy to a "good" groomer every other grooming session the first 6 to 12 months...this will put you and your puppy ahead of the game. Good groomers will move this learning process along. It also gives you a good grooming path to follow if you groom them within 6 weeks of the professional groomer. Many of my customers have gone on to be good at grooming their poodle by going this route. I get a lot of feedback from my customers and I pay attention to this stuff.
I will keep this section pretty simple as I really prefer if you are learning to groom to buy the beginners grooming video put out by "Muddycreekgrooming.com" or invest in a couple personal lessons from a groomer, compensate the groomer well and the right groomer will teach you some tricks of the trade and how to avoid more then a years worth of mistakes. It does take a good investment to get started grooming but is rewarding.
You should purchase all the items the video lays out for you to properly groom your poodle....clippers, shears, blades, blow dryer, combs, shampoo.
Here are some of my favorites that I use all the time here:
Clippers: my favorite are the Andis Excel 5-speed clipper.
Blow Dryer: I have the Challengair 2000
Blades: I use both Wahl and Andis blades. In summer I use a closer blade..a 5F (buy blades in the finish cut.) In the winter I use a 4 blade. I actully prefer the 4F blade and use it most of the time. If you like a longer clip, Wahl sells some nice metal attachment blades that I like on puppies so they are tidy but still have some puppy coat. Or if you like the legs left longer use the attachment blades and then scissor the legs too. These attach onto a # 30 blade and come in a assortment of lengths. I use a 10 or a 15 on faces, paws and potty path....start with a #10... REMEMBER the higher the number on the blade the shorter the cut! I prefer the # 10 blade over the 15 myself. I do not recommend EVER using a #30 on your poodles face ...clipper and razor burns are not fun and they are for the professionals in my view plus they about skin a dog! Also blades get hot...no way around it... so count on having 2 of each blade to switch while grooming.
Shears: Gieb Buttercut both the straight and curved in the 9 1/2 inch length. I also have a pair of short 8 inch in a lessor quality that I happen to love! Made by Fromm and they have been wonderful...
Blades and shears will need sharpened...I have to send mine off as we live very rural and I cannot seem to find anyone.
Combs: My favorite are the Oster metal combs...you will only have to buy these once as they last forever. I could not be without the metal Oster coarse comb w/handle. I
Slicker brush: in soft or medium...I do not like the hard.
Shampoo: There are so many to choose from! I happen to love ALL the Coat Handler products and use them exclusively. You may have to google them as I buy mine from a groomer outlet. Gentle, soothing shampoos are best. I do not like highly perfumed shampoos...please remember that dogs sense of smell is thousands times greater then humans...how would you like perfume?
Books & training thoughts
The best advice I can honestly give in training a Poodles is:
1.) Stay consistent and be fair! Poodles are smart so love to learn and love to please their families!
2.) Do not let your puppy do things you do not want him to do as an adult. Habits develop fast!
3.) And remember Poodles want to be with their people/families...if you do not have time for a dog as a BIG part of your life, do not get a poodle puppy.
4.) I will add some books I personally like, but it is always good to read many and sift through it all with common sense. No one trainer is a God to training methods. If you find a book you love, please tell me about it so we can share!
I really enjoy watching and reading Cesar Millan. I have learned very much from him. His way is of course more a "dog philosophy" rather then actual training methods. BUT... if you can get that... then training does not have to be nearly so formal as it is a way of life with your dog...expectations seen through so to speak!
I use to a great degree in rearing my young pups this book:
"Another Piece of the Puzzle, Puppy Development "
by Pat Hastings & Erin Ann Rouse
This is a good book to buy if you like to know some of the things good breeders do to raise litters. I encourage everyone to order this book when they place a deposit on one of my puppies!
"Clicker Training for Dogs" by Karen Pryor is interesting....Personally I do not know that I would call myself a clicker trainer type person...but I have this book and have tried a little of the clicker training method here and there. Everyone is different and this book is interesting in concept of training methods.
I still like the books by the Monks Of New Skeete, they have been out there for years...they have several books such as :
The Art of Raising a Puppy
How To Be Your Dogs's Best Friend
I am presently reading the book "Animals in Translation" by Temple Grandin
Those who have worked livestock such as cattle like us are familiar with her. She is a Autistic women with the gift of understanding and studying (in great detail) animal behavior. She did a movie about herself and her development of how best to work cattle and livestock without stress....simply GREAT! I apply all I have learned from years on ranches to my dogs...yes, poodles respond to all this great. What every dog really desires is kind, fair consistency in their leader. Love is a given!
Hope this helps, if you love dogs then all of these books are helpful and fun!
Order this book from:
and find MANY good books at that website!