Puppy Information Page

Please read all info on this page in full if you want to place a deposit.  

  Many questions are answered on this page.


I sincerely hope my website is enjoyable & informative. 
I use ONLY my own words, thoughts, concepts & pictures.
Those who steal my info/pictures...please note I have 
a copyright!

Below is info on:
1.) Deposit, Purchasing & prices, waiting list
2.) Ready to take your puppy home...FOOD I use & recommend.
3.) Grooming
4.) Books & my training thoughts


Just scroll down to read it all.
Please note...Solo Standards only has 2 litters a year.
At this time we do NOT ship our puppies.

Deposits, Purchasing, Pricing Info - Please Read!


***Also please read  Sales agreement/Health Guarantee page***

All puppy vaccinations and de-worming for appropriate age are done.  These records are sent home with every puppy, please take 
record with you on your first Vet appointment.  
Please have your Vet apt made in advance of taking your puppy home as stated in 
sales contract.
"Early Neurological Stimulation" is done on every litter.
I spend tons of time with my puppies!
They come to you healthy, well socialized, freshly groomed and VERY LOVED by me!
All questions answered to the best of my knowledge at all stages of a puppy/
dogs life that comes from Solo Standards.

Shipping:  As of Dec 2013 I do not ship my puppies cargo any longer.  TOO many delays, flight changes,
ect.  Some people do fly in on their own means and take puppies back as a carry on.  If you do this you must plan to do so at 8 wks old or my pups can get too big to take on carry on.  Most people pick puppies up and meet the parent dogs.  I do not meet at the airport.


PRICES:


 Serious inquiries only, please call or email me (I do not text or do business over Facebook)....No window shoppers, please know what you are looking for in a puppy /the breed and then we can visit.  Thanks!


Deposits:


****Deposits are $500 and are NON-REFUNDABLE
You are trusting me as a breeder and I am trusting that if you place a deposit, I can rely on you...I tell many people that litters are spoken for when I have deposits on a litter.
If I cannot help you with a puppy due to not having enough pups/not the gender you requested or some reason on MY END then I will give you the option of applying your deposit to the next litter or a full refund.  Colors must be noted on contract...I do respect color/gender choices but it is always best to put color choices on the contract and note it with me 
beforehand.  I breed mostly for solid black, solid brown and occasional black/white & brown/white parts....some sables and creams but I will note that if I expect them.  I DO NOT BREED FOR REDS.  Nor am I partners with another breeder of reds...red is not my gene color or my preference.
A deposit on a 
litter means you know you want a Solo Standards pup.  I put MANY pictures on my website of the litter growing up with news about them every 2 weeks.  Choosing goes in order of deposits received and is done with us working together...we do not start the picking process until 7-8 weeks old.  

**** Solo Standards "ALWAYS" has the right to 1st pick of a litter ****
We have the right to refuse a sale to anyone at any time
.


Waiting List:


I do keep a waiting list but I may be different from other breeders:
1.) I only take deposits for 1 litter at a time, as to be sure to be able to help all those with deposits.  As a small 
breeder, it is wise to not get too far out on how many people I am helping to get a puppy at a time.  I do my best to have 2 litters a year...preferably spring/summer/fall months.
2.) I do keep a waiting list to have your name/basic puppy requests/phone number and contact date to go on.  BUT I rely on you to keep in touch with me with continued interest until the time I take a deposit and start a puppy contract with you, ****at that point I keep in touch with you.  I re-fresh my waiting list every 2 months, if you have not sent 
an email saying you want to remain on the waiting list then I do not keep your info.  It is the only way I can keep a  fair list of who is really waiting.  Many people email/message me and it would be impossible to keep track as a small breeder.  Thus I came up with only keeping a tentative list and relying on people to check back with me to stay on the list.  It seems to be working well and involves no money.  I find my true & steady customers this way.  Before I  add you to a list we must visit via phone call, and YOU MUST give me your name, city/state of address and phone number.   If you just message me or email me please know that does not automatically put you on a waiting list but is a wonderful first introduction.  



SPAY & NEUTERING


All puppies are sold under a spay/neuter contract
 unless agreed upon BEFORE PURCHASE.  AKC  reg papers are marked with limited reg.  NO EXCEPTIONS unless agreed before the purchase of a puppy.   I prefer the puppy gets through his/her biggest growth spurts before being spayed/neutered.  They do use hormones for bone/joint growth in these times.  I feel if they get past these growth stages then they can be spayed/neutered with very good long term health.  I recommend  8-9 months spaying for females and  10 -12 months for neutering for males.   I do stay current on the spay/neuter updates and stand by my protocol.  

Pups are guaranteed against hereditary problems for 1 year and against hip dysplasia for 2 years.  If a problem arises I will not ignore it.  I breed for healthy dogs, but as life with any living creature on this earth...human or animal, 
there is no 100% guarantee of never having a health issue.  Any breeder who states otherwise is either a beginner who is in the first 5 years of their breeding program or is lying.  What I can guarantee is I try my very best to breed an all-around wonderful dog.  This means I continually health test, educate myself, KNOW MY LINE OF DOGS.  I love what I do and the learning curve has no end for me but is always moving forward.  As of 2019 I have 14 years into by Standard Poodles breeding program and several more years with other breeds before I got into Standards.  I only breed Standard Poodles and specialize in a larger built poodle that some refer to as:
"ROYAL STANDARD POODLES"
It is hard to guarantee size, I will give my best opinion.  My females range from 55 to 75 lbs and my males range from 65 to 85 lbs.  Please note the average size show poodle is 45 to 50 lbs and very light boned these days (smaller these days then years 
gone by as that became the show trend in AKC.)   I am not against smaller poodles...all is well...I just love and breed for a larger, more majestic stature & strength in my poodles.  It is a work in progress along with the best temperaments of stable nerve, mind & intelligence you will find.

Please search for 
an ethical breeder who is committed for the long haul.  I believe you should not only get a quality puppy for your money...but the life of the breeding dogs is just as important.  I love my dogs, I promise they have long, wonderful & full lives.

Poodles as a whole are a sensitive, intelligent, athletic breed and I treat them as such.  I also appreciate their individuality and personality quirks that 
make each Poodle so different... ranging from a thinker to a clown.  This breed has tons of personality and they like to show it off.  They love the great outdoors...and love following you in the house! 

About poodle colors...there are so many...NO other purebred dog breed has as many colors as the Poodle!  Poodle coat genetics are different and poodles can change shades of the color they are born with...fading is possible/likely with poodles.  The ONLY color that can be 100% guaranteed not to change over 
the years in poodles is ICY WHITE.  Again, I give my best opinion on the size your pup will be as an adult...I never guarantee size or color.  I do breed for the Royal Size Poodle overall...in both size and noble character.  I do try to take a yearly on line canine genetic class by ICB.  I use Embark, VetGen, UC Davis for genetic markers and COI's.  


~ Jean M Miller ~



Ready to take puppy home!  Dog Food, ect
Please read these tips for AN easy transition


Dog Food has turned into quit the hot topic in the last few years.  I will  give my view and what I use for my dogs in this section.  I am willing to allow customers to use what they have found works  for their dogs in the past or currently (as many are either re-turn customer or had poodles before and have a brand they like.)​​  I have only one exception to this and it is....
DO NOT FEED GRAIN FREE dog food! 
The peas, lentil, soy, ect are far worse for dogs then corn, rice or some grains...it's the truth!!!!
Even too much potatoe is not good.  The new boutique style dog foods are questionable in my opinion.
If you feed raw, that is fine but...please take a course in nutrion as it is not as easy as, give your dog a bone!  A lot goes into knowing a proper raw diet and commintment is needed.

So what do I feed, recommend:
I currently use Redpaw, PowerEdge 32K...I like the higher protien/fat content for my breeding dogs.
If you are less active I suggest using the Redpaw PowerEdge 26K or better yet the 
Redpaw X-series (love the x-series, start with puppy, then pick the best for your dog's activity level.)
I am lucky that my Vet uses and sells this brand...and he is a breeder of Field Labs for 35 years!!!
To find it and/or learn more go to Redpaw.com 

Here are some other good choices to consider:
~ Bil-Jac Adult Select, I used this for years...it was fine, we need a higher octane food for breeding.
~ Good old Purina Pro-Plan Sport...MANY breeders stand by this dog food!
~ 4-Health dog food made and sold by Tractor Supply Retail Store.  I have several customers who use this...do not use the grain free formula.
~ I have customers who like the Victor Dog foods.
Above foods can be conveniently ordered from chewy.com
My dog food cannot...

Most importanty though I want to touch on my PROBIOTIC!
I use a product called Dogzymes PROBIOTIC MAX, which is a probiotic & digestive enzyme in one!
I get it from "Nature's Farmacy"
Please note I  start each and every litter out on this supplement and go forth with it on every single dog on my place.  Please try to have this product ordered before you take you puppy home.   I swear by it.
Here is a link to order it:

http://i.refs.cc/hwxj1LQD


I do bone broths, chicken livers, beef liver broth, beef heart and/or kidney as toppers on my dog's evening meals...I do cook these with lots of water for broths and use as a top dressing for a very moist evening  meal (organ meat is great but rich and a little goes a long way.)  Dogs are meant to have moist meals...so our evening meals are soaked for about 20 minutes and my dogs love it...morning meals are lighter and just dry food with the Probiotic Max  & 1 Tbs of organic coconut oil.
That's it....keep it simple.  If you do not want to stew organs and bone broths...use a little can food with some warm water for a moist meal...dogs love the soft meals.
I alwasy feed my dogs twice a day...one big meal is proven to be more bloat causing.  
Again these are my methods at Solo Standards...not scientific methods published in journals! 

Toys, chews and such
I use the orange and blue chuck-it balls...the rubber ones and our favorite toy around here!
I use kong toys
I use some deer antlers...they do not seem as hard as the elk ones and easier on teeth.
I use some pizzle sticks
I use some raw knuckle bones...limited supply with these as I do not always have them. 
I do not have tons of toys...we fetch, we hike, and my dogs play keep away & tag all the time....poodles love games amoungst themselves and have naturaly playful spirits!   Just like with children...let them be and watch them play! 

My mother-in-law loves giving treats!

Grooming tips...
 For those with interest in grooming


Here are some grooming tips...please know I am not a professional groomer.  I do ALL of my own grooming on my dogs and puppies.  It is a bonding time, a training time, plus I know how I personally like my dogs done so would not want anyone doing my grooming.  I like a sporting clip on my dogs done with some tail and topknot left on.

***I really must stress this***  If you dread grooming...please pay a groomer to do it as your dog will end up hating it too.  Desire is the key to learning most anything! 

***I also must stress*** that even if you like a longer coat on your puppy you MUST still groom them fairly often that first year.  Simply use a attachment blade and groom them leaving the coat trimmed but longer.  You do not have to groom them really short but you must realize they are learning to be groomed that whole first year with the first 6 months being of utmost importance.  If you call me when your puppy is 5 or 6 months old and have never shaved their body down before and wonder why they are acting so bad...I will tell you why...you waited TOO LONG!  They also get too hot with really long coats and actually prefer to be trimmed.

*** I feel I also must stress (because I hear this from my customers all the time) "I go very slow and give many rewards, but they still squirm all over the place."  OK, here is the deal, grooming is a grooming and they learn that, puppies & adult dogs greatly appreciate your being  "kind & gentle"  YET  "firm & efficient!"  Do not make grooming into marathon of being so slow and using baby talk, ect.  Puppies/dogs want and need direction from you and will give you respect back when they feel you are in control and being fair.   If you are truly learning the art of grooming and having problems...do not be afraid to take your puppy to a "good" groomer every other grooming session the first 6 to 12 months...this will put you and your puppy ahead of the game.  Good groomers will move this learning process along.  It also gives you a good grooming path to follow if you groom them within 6 weeks of the professional groomer.  Many of my customers have gone on to be good at grooming their poodle by going this route.  I get a lot of feedback from my customers and I pay attention to this stuff.

I will keep this section pretty simple as I really prefer if you are learning to groom to buy the beginners grooming video put out by "Muddycreekgrooming.com" or invest in a couple personal lessons from a groomer, compensate the groomer well and the right groomer will teach you some tricks of the trade and how to avoid more then a years worth of mistakes.   It does take a  good investment to get started grooming but is rewarding.
You should purchase all the items the video lays out for you to properly groom your poodle....clippers, shears, blades, blow dryer, combs, shampoo.
Here are some of my favorites that I use all the time here:

Clippers: my favorite are the Andis Excel 5-speed clipper.

Blow Dryer: I have the Challengair 2000 

Blades: I use both Wahl and Andis blades.  In summer I use a closer blade..a 5F  (buy blades in the finish cut.)  In the winter I use a 4 blade.  I actully prefer the 4F blade and use it most of the time.  If you like a longer clip, Wahl sells some nice metal attachment blades that I like on puppies so they are tidy but still have some puppy coat.  Or if you like the legs left longer use the attachment blades and then scissor the legs too.  These attach onto a # 30 blade and come in a assortment of lengths.  I use a 10 or a 15 on faces, paws and potty path....start with a #10... REMEMBER the higher the number on the blade the shorter the cut!  I prefer the # 10 blade over the 15 myself.  I do not recommend EVER using a #30  on your poodles face ...clipper and razor burns are not fun and they are for the professionals in my view plus they about skin a dog!  Also blades get hot...no way around it... so count on having 2 of each blade to switch while grooming.

Shears: Gieb Buttercut both the straight and curved in the 9 1/2 inch length.  I also have a pair of short 8 inch in a lessor quality that I happen to love!  Made by Fromm and they have been wonderful...

Blades and shears will need sharpened...I have to send mine off as we live very rural and I cannot seem to find anyone.

Combs:  My favorite are the Oster metal combs...you will only have to buy these once as they last forever.  I could not be without the metal Oster coarse comb w/handle.  I

Slicker brush: in soft or medium...I do not like the hard. 

Shampoo:  There are so many to choose from!   I happen to love ALL the Coat Handler products and use them exclusively.  You may have to google them as I buy mine from a groomer outlet.  Gentle, soothing shampoos are best.  I do not like highly perfumed shampoos...please remember that dogs sense of smell is thousands times greater then humans...how would you like perfume?  



Books & training thoughts
The best advice I can honestly give in training a Poodles is:
 1.) Stay consistent and be fair!  Poodles are smart so love to learn and love to please their families!
2.) Do not let your puppy do things you do not want him to do as an adult.  Habits develop fast! 
3.) And remember Poodles want to be with their people/families...if you do not have time for a dog as a BIG part of your life, do not get a poodle puppy.
4.) I will add some books I personally like, but it is always good to read many and sift through it all with common sense.  No one trainer is a God to training methods.  If you find a book you love, please tell me about it so we can share!


I really enjoy watching and reading Cesar Millan.  I have learned very much from him.  His way is of course more a "dog philosophy" rather then actual training methods.  BUT... if you can get that... then training does not have to be nearly so formal as it is a way of life with your dog...expectations seen through so to speak!  

I use to a great degree in rearing my young pups this book:  
"Another Piece of the Puzzle, Puppy Development " 
 by Pat Hastings & Erin Ann Rouse
  This is a good book to buy if you like to know some of the things good breeders do to raise litters.  I encourage everyone to order this book when they place a deposit on one of my puppies!



Order this book from:
dogwise.com 
and find MANY good books at that website!



"Clicker  Training for Dogs" by Karen Pryor is interesting.... Personally, I do not know that I would call myself a clicker trainer type person...but I have this book and have tried a little of the clicker training method here and there.  Everyone is different and this book is interesting in the concept of training methods.

I still like the books by the Monks Of New Skeete, they have been out there for years...they have several books such as :
The Art of Raising a Puppy
How To Be Your Dogs' Best Friend

I am a dedicated study of the  Leerburg training videos ...they are well worth is.  Just google Leeburg and go to his site and explore it...so much good info there! 

  I apply all I have learned from years on ranches to my dogs...yes, poodles respond to all this great.  What every dog really desires is kind, fair consistency in their leader. Love is a given!


Hope this helps, if you love dogs then all of these books are helpful and fun!
Sincerely,  
Jean